NITROUS WIRING

[LITTLEMAGS]

does this look right???

[1BADAIR]

red MSD should go to the arm switch ACC

[wheelz357]

red MSD should go to the arm switch ACC
x2

[LITTLEMAGS]

thanks guys...
another question....should I run the bottle heater and purge on seperate relays?

This is my FIRST nitrous kit and want to make sure I do it right.

[1BADAIR]

my purge doesn't use a relay. I don't think you need it. The warmer does. Does it have a pressure switch too?

[LITTLEMAGS]

my purge doesn't use a relay. I don't think you need it. The warmer does. Does it have a pressure switch too?
ok on the purge.

Yes? on the pressure switch? I assume that is the thing I connected to the bottle with the two prongs off of it? it is hard to see in the pic but I think you will know what it is?

[MxRacerCam]

i'm assuming you have the #85 post off the relay going to ground, and not the + on the battery, right? it's not clear on the drawing.

[LITTLEMAGS]

i'm assuming you have the #85 post off the relay going to ground, and not the + on the battery, right? it's not clear on the drawing.

I have the black off the relay going to the battery...is that wrong?

[MxRacerCam]

by battery, you mean the positive post on the battery? if so, then yes, that's wrong. it needs to go to ground.

[LITTLEMAGS]

by battery, you mean the positive post on the battery? if so, then yes, that's wrong. it needs to go to ground.
OK... so that goes to the ground. does everything else look right?

[MxRacerCam]

personally, i'd wire it so all the switches were on the switched (#86) side of the relay, and have a clean +12V going to the #30 side on the relay. (sorry... i never use the colored pigtails so i have no clue as to what color wire goes where on the relay). that, and what they said about the window switch.

[LITTLEMAGS]

personally, i'd wire it so all the switches were on the switched (#86) side of the relay, and have a clean +12V going to the #30 side on the relay. (sorry... i never use the colored pigtails so i have no clue as to what color wire goes where on the relay). that, and what they said about the window switch.
OK...i will change my diagram with numbers instead of colors and repost the diagram. I don't want to make any mistakes...

[QUASAR]

No I think the black from the relay should go to positive.

If what i'm thinking is correct, red is positive trigger for the relay, while white is ground for the relay trigger.

Black is the high current (+) input into the relay, and green is the high current (+) output to the solenoids.

So I think black should go from either the battery + or another good power source, post at the fuse box ect.

[MxRacerCam]

No I think the black from the relay should go to positive.

If what i'm thinking is correct, red is positive trigger for the relay, while white is ground for the relay trigger.

Black is the high current (+) input into the relay, and green is the high current (+) output to the solenoids.

So I think black should go from either the battery + or another good power source, post at the fuse box ect.


like i said, i don't know the pigtail colors. but there has to be a ground on that relay, and his diagram isn't showing one at all!!

[QUASAR]

White is ground. The window switch supplies the ground signal, and the signal passes thru the fpss and as long as that criteria is met the ground signal goes to the relay to energize the coil inside of it.

I can never remember the relay pin #'s. But I just keep in mind the basic operation of a relay and thats kinda what i'm going off of.

[MxRacerCam]

ahhh... wasn't aware that the window switch provided ground. nevermind then!! :)

[LITTLEMAGS]

you guys are confusing me!

[QUASAR]

Before I understood how a relay worked it was confusing to me too. The high current (+) runs into the relay, then out of it to the solenoids. There is a little "coil" inside of the relay that needs a low current positive and negative charge to energize itself and "complete" the high current circut.

low current (+) comes from the arming switch

low current (-) comes from the window switch (and if you had no window switch or fpss you would just ground that wire and the system would activate soely by the arming switch.

high current enters the relay from a good power source, and exits the relay to power the solenoids.

when the low current side gets (+) and (-) it energizes the coil to connect/complete the high current circut.

I'm no EE but I think thats right.

[MxRacerCam]

I'm no EE but I think thats right.


it is. i just didn't know that the window switch provided a switched ground.

gazoo... listen to quasar on this one. :wink:

[LITTLEMAGS]

it is. i just didn't know that the window switch provided a switched ground.

gazoo... listen to quasar on this one. :wink:
OK...thanks again for all the input!

[1BADAIR]

ok on the purge.

Yes? on the pressure switch? I assume that is the thing I connected to the bottle with the two prongs off of it? it is hard to see in the pic but I think you will know what it is?

the pressure switch should be hooked to the ground side of the relay(white) usually) MAKE SURE THE BOTTLE IS OPEN WHEN THE WARMER IS ON. If the bottle is closed it won't see 1050psi and will never shut off

[LITTLEMAGS]

the pressure switch should be hooked to the ground side of the relay(white) usually) MAKE SURE THE BOTTLE IS OPEN WHEN THE WARMER IS ON. If the bottle is closed it won't see 1050psi and will never shut off
Iam going to take a pic of the wiring for the bottle heater. i just want to make sure it is right...

[1BADAIR]

http://i73.imagethrust.com/images/1RUA/view-image/15718-with-fpss-and-msd-win.html

nx told me to put the pressure switch on the ground side but it appears it can be on the trigger side too.
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Instructions/heater.pdf

[LITTLEMAGS]

http://i73.imagethrust.com/images/1RUA/view-image/15718-with-fpss-and-msd-win.html

nx told me to put the pressure switch on the ground side but it appears it can be on the trigger side too.
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Instructions/heater.pdf


YOU RULE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THANK YOU VERY MUCH!

[LITTLEMAGS]

NOW....here is a question for you wiring guys...
LOOKING at my wiring diagram, I have changed the wiring to what you guys said to. NOW...I have recieved the relay...guess what? it is NOT color coded. OK...for me now Iam lost...
ASSUMING all relays are pretty much the same...
what would the numbers correspond to what colors? if that is possible to access (ie 30=white?, 85=?,86=?, 87=?)

[MxRacerCam]

red will be 86, green 87, white to 85, black to 30.

[LITTLEMAGS]

red will be 86, green 87, white to 85, black to 30.
THANKS!.....

[LITTLEMAGS]

ok...what wiring size should i use to wire up the rest of the system. I have 14 guage and 18 guage color coded wire here at work...

[MxRacerCam]

i'd run the 14 for everything but the main switch and wot switch. the 18 will be fine for those, and easier to plumb.

[LITTLEMAGS]

i'd run the 14 for everything but the main switch and wot switch. the 18 will be fine for those, and easier to plumb.
THANKS AGAIN! Iam going to be working on the wiring this weekend...any problems and I will ask...thanks

[1BADAIR]

I would recommend 12 for the warmer. Mine was wired with 14 when I got it and you cold see that it had gotten pretty warm

[Michigan Skip]

NOW....here is a question for you wiring guys...
LOOKING at my wiring diagram, I have changed the wiring to what you guys said to. NOW...I have recieved the relay...guess what? it is NOT color coded. OK...for me now Iam lost...
ASSUMING all relays are pretty much the same...
what would the numbers correspond to what colors? if that is possible to access (ie 30=white?, 85=?,86=?, 87=?)
If you pull the relay out of the socket and look under it there will be some numbers next to the terminals,then you can reference the wires to the terminals.