View Full Version : Bad Wheel bearing, how can I tell which one it is?
Line Noise
10-20-2006, 06:05 PM
2000 Olds Alero making a whirring sound (Doesn't change when brakes are applied) does change with speed. I was over in Battle Creek when it started and I got a Traction Control, ABS, and Service Vehicle lights.
Searching online yeilded ton's of reports on Alero's that this combination is a bad Wheel bearing hub assembly. I no longer have any of the lights, however it sounds much much worse & sunday I have to drive to Niles, Then holland for work and need to fix it before then. It sounds like the front left but I can't tell fo sure. How can I test?
1BADAIR
10-20-2006, 06:26 PM
front left usually makes noise on right turns
usually the outside tire during a turn cause it see's the most load
Line Noise
10-20-2006, 07:00 PM
front left usually makes noise on right turns
usually the outside tire during a turn cause it see's the most load
Less noise on right turns. Tomorrow am I'll jeck it up and spin it and listen ...
1BADAIR is correct.
Less noise on right turns. Tomorrow am I'll jeck it up and spin it and listen ...It's more than likely the RF bearing, especially if it gets louder than normal on left turns. You probably won't hear anything by jacking the front end up and spinning the wheels since the bearings aren't loaded.
turbo89gt
10-20-2006, 07:23 PM
lift up that corner of the car and try to shake the wheel. usually if you have a bad berring you can wiggle the wheel side to side because the berring is loose and worn out. The ABS light is possiably related due to the movement and vibration a bad wheel berring will allow, but i doubt it. The engine light i dont believe should be related at all.
1BADAIR
10-20-2006, 07:26 PM
some cars us wheel speed for trans input which could turn the engine light on but I am pretty sure that car doesn't.
I have seen many bad bearings with no signs of movement
Rod442
10-20-2006, 07:27 PM
should be able to turn back and forth like a slalom course (at slow speeds)and see when the noise changes with each direction. also have a passanger in the car to see if they can pinpoint which it is.
1BADAIR's probably right, but I have seen a few where by loading the bearing when its the outside wheel on a turn makes it quieter.
and, if its that noisy its likely to have some play in it, wiggle the wheel/tire side to side and up and down to feel for any play. get both wheels in the air, and see if there's any difference.
AND, hope that its not both sides making noise.
I have seen many bad bearings with no signs of movementX2
Line Noise
10-21-2006, 09:10 AM
It's not a SES light it's a SVS (service vehilce). After reading the Alero/Gran am forums. I'm 100% sure this combination is a wheel bearing. There where 100's of posts and everyone except 2 where the bearings the others were unplugged Speed Sensors.
This will be the 4th Wheel bearing on this car in 90K miles. It really doesn't sound to bad to replace.
Appreciat all the info guys.
Sean124
10-21-2006, 09:42 AM
It's not a SES light it's a SVS (service vehilce). After reading the Alero/Gran am forums. I'm 100% sure this combination is a wheel bearing. There where 100's of posts and everyone except 2 where the bearings the others were unplugged Speed Sensors.
This will be the 4th Wheel bearing on this car in 90K miles. It really doesn't sound to bad to replace.
Appreciat all the info guys.
Stop buying cheap replacement bearings. Go to a NAPA or another Quality parts sales store and geta premium SKF. For a good hub assembly you should spend around $200 per side.
Line Noise
10-21-2006, 11:50 AM
Stop buying cheap replacement bearings. Go to a NAPA or another Quality parts sales store and geta premium SKF. For a good hub assembly you should spend around $200 per side.
The 4 replacements were warrenty. Also 1 strut, and Front rotors 3 (warping) times. It seems N-Body's are shitty on Bearinga and rotor's.
I can look at the car wrong and make it warp a rotor.
Sean124
10-21-2006, 12:41 PM
The 4 replacements were warrenty. Also 1 strut, and Front rotors 3 (warping) times. It seems N-Body's are shitty on Bearinga and rotor's.
I can look at the car wrong and make it warp a rotor.
PArts quality and instilation practices have a huge impact on rotor warping. We do Nbody brakes all day long and have zero issues with pedal pulsation or shake and brake as we call it here. The issue is usually rotor material quality not all iron is the same and cutting the rotors and cleaning the hub surfaces so the rotors doesn't distort when its torqued down.
As for the hub if your shopping at the Dealer,Autozone Murrays etc your getting the same crappy hub all the time. Junk chinese seals leak water in. the other issue maybe Axle nut tq. If the nut is under Tq'd it will kill the bearing super fast Also have to make sure that the nut doesn't bottom out and that there is a washer under it. If there is no washer and the nut bottoms without pulling the races tight it will kill a bearing in a hurry.. The TQ spec is 350lb ft.
Line Noise
10-21-2006, 12:58 PM
PArts quality and instilation practices have a huge impact on rotor warping. We do Nbody brakes all day long and have zero issues with pedal pulsation or shake and brake as we call it here. The issue is usually rotor material quality not all iron is the same and cutting the rotors and cleaning the hub surfaces so the rotors doesn't distort when its torqued down.
As for the hub if your shopping at the Dealer,Autozone Murrays etc your getting the same crappy hub all the time. Junk chinese seals leak water in. the other issue maybe Axle nut tq. If the nut is under Tq'd it will kill the bearing super fast Also have to make sure that the nut doesn't bottom out and that there is a washer under it. If there is no washer and the nut bottoms without pulling the races tight it will kill a bearing in a hurry.. The TQ spec is 350lb ft.
thanks. Chilton's called for 284 ft / lbs
Sean124
10-21-2006, 01:05 PM
thanks. Chilton's called for 284 ft / lbs
Yeah but when i don;t Tq them to 350 they always come back howolling. The factory TQ spec isn't tight enough.
88ls1blazer
10-21-2006, 01:09 PM
Sean, you sure on the Tq. spec? Alldata pro says old style nut is 284 ft lbs (which is what i torqued mine to cause i reused the stock nut) new nut style pn. 10289657 is 173 ft. lbs, also if you have 16 inch wheels i can solve that rotor warping issue you have, i have 60k miles on the rotors i currently have (which were used, and i mean 60k miles addidtional to whatever was on them already) and 186k miles on my wheel bearings, and never have had a problem, but i tore through the stock (even GM) rotors like crazy
88ls1blazer
10-21-2006, 01:10 PM
and almost 80k miles since I reused the stock axle nut
Sean124
10-21-2006, 01:31 PM
Sean, you sure on the Tq. spec? Alldata pro says old style nut is 284 ft lbs (which is what i torqued mine to cause i reused the stock nut) new nut style pn. 10289657 is 173 ft. lbs, also if you have 16 inch wheels i can solve that rotor warping issue you have, i have 60k miles on the rotors i currently have (which were used, and i mean 60k miles addidtional to whatever was on them already) and 186k miles on my wheel bearings, and never have had a problem, but i tore through the stock (even GM) rotors like crazy
Old nut 350lb ft. If you under Tq the hub it will move around and let water in the seals and ruin it.
88ls1blazer
10-21-2006, 01:33 PM
i guess ive got a factory freak :dontknow: , you know im not arguing w/ you sean, just baffled why mine has been so worry free, its not like i baby that car
Line Noise
10-21-2006, 02:44 PM
also if you have 16 inch wheels i can solve that rotor warping issue you have
My ears are wide open I do have the 16" wheels
Sean124
10-21-2006, 02:49 PM
My ears are wide open I do have the 16" wheels
Sure put the rotor on and TQ it to spec with the wheel and mark a stud for line up. tghten and loosen the wheel 4-5 time then turn the rotor.
88ls1blazer
10-21-2006, 02:49 PM
find yourself a set of 98-02 4th gen f-body caliper brackets, and use either the matching f-body calipers or c5 vette calipers, this allows you to use 12" 98-02 camaro rotors
88ls1blazer
10-21-2006, 02:55 PM
here are pics for you on my car
Damn. All you boy scouts torque those axle/hub nuts? I've always rattled 'em on with my trusty 1/2" IR impact as tight as she'll go. After dozens of these jobs I've done, haven't had a single one come back.:wink:
1BADAIR
10-22-2006, 12:49 AM
at ford I had to untorque and torque everything
at ford I had to untorque and torque everythingWe have to do this at GM also.:whistle: Yep, torqued to spec. :deal:
1BADAIR
10-22-2006, 01:09 AM
everything was recorded and if you didn't torque it, the guy after you would right down the torque to tighten number before removal and they could tell you didn't torque it
You must be talking about in a test/development type environment. In this case it is important that the torque specs are strictly adhered to. We do the same, and also mark the bolt head (or nut) and the area right next to it with a paint pen. In my previous posts, I was talking about working out in the real world.:wink:
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