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Hello. I have recently had a dart based ford motor built and the dyno numbers were abnormally low. What can be a cause of low power on a fresh build? Motor runs fine. Afr was good. I somewhat copied other similar builds and was hoping to get similar if not better results. I am also aware that its the track results that matter more but i dont attend the track often.
Thanks
Detail everything between the engine you copied and the engine you built. That will be the only way someone can start to help.
Hundreds of possible variables. Was the cam degree'ed at install. Rings gaped properly, Correct thickness head gasket, valve lash set accordingly, the list goes on and on and on and on.
Im wondering where would be a good place to start.
10:1 363
205 tfs 11r heads
Comp 236/243. .608/.593 112lsa
Carb style vic jr efi
42lb injectors
Ba2600 maf
It made about the equivalent of 470-490 crank hp. Builds i copied were about 540-580. And it was on lidios dyno which is somewhat generous.
Timing & exhaust can toy with the power. What headers and are you full length? Dia?
Is the engine getting up to op temp quick? Does it have a flat spot in the powerband or right before it?
So it's being measured through a chassis dyno? The build you copied was it dynoed on an engine dyno?
Done on bothQuote:
Originally Posted by camaromann
I'm not real bright, I'd think those heads are large for that motor though.
Has 1 3/4 longtubes. The hp has a steady incline correctly but the torque is flat the whole way. Only did 338lb ft peak. But it was 300-338lb ft from 3200-6500Quote:
Originally Posted by Beigg
You dyno your engine on an engine dyno, then put it in your car and put the car on a chassis dyno?Quote:
Originally Posted by gub
I just did a chassis
Auto or manual? Honestly those numbers don’t seem too far off to me.(torque seems a bit low.). Did Lidio also tune it?
Years ago my 410w put down 43x or something along those lines on Lidios dyno. I was never impressed with the number but the car outran plenty of cars boasting bigger numbers.
Picture of the plugs? How fast is the coolant reaching op temp?Quote:
Originally Posted by gub
That seems like a 500 horse combo to me not a 600 horse combo. 550 horsepower would probably need 12 to 1 compression and a bit more camshaft which means a bit more RPM..
600+ hp would probably need 15 to 1 compression and 8500 RPM. my 396 small block head 230cc heads more camshaft and 11 and a half to 1 compression and that made about 575hp. That was a hundred twenty eight mile an hour on motor at 3450 pounds with a Powerglide.
My last sbc was stock block 355ci @11:1 and made 613 on engine dyno at about 7600rpm :icon_biggQuote:
Originally Posted by AutoRoc
If it was through a loose convertor then that would explain it all.
-Geoff
Haven't had a chance to look at the plugs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Beigg
The car is an auto and the coverter was locked for the dyno pulls
What kind of cam? Something around 265+ @ .050" right?Quote:
Originally Posted by camaromann
I honestly dont remeber. I messed it up though when I ordered it becasue I thought I knew better lol. It wasnt huge. Around .650/.680 lift and I know advertised it was over 300 a bit. It was a solid roller. I had them put it on a 108 lobe, but it should have been on a 110 or 112. Would have made more power dammit. I had lot of little stuff done to the rotating assembly, and the cylinder heads were VERY good. I spent over a month coming up with ideas and what to do with the ports and chamber. Intake was a crappy team G single plane the was untouched except a port match.Quote:
Originally Posted by AutoRoc
What fuel?
Ida used 60lb injectors. But that’s me.
Is it running out of fuel?
Any data logs you can post?
What efi? Who tuning it? Lidio?
I think I am going to pile my guess on AutoRoc's and say you need more compression then. Can you mill the heads a little and bump it up? Those TFS heads are pretty good and should tell you how many CC's you would remove as a function of every 0.005" milling (or something similar).
-Geoff
Start milling the heads, then the intake ports start becoming misaligned the more you mill.Then you have to mill the intake faces of the intake itself. If he mills .010-.020 off the heads there shouldnt be any issues. But that would only net him 3cc or so. Maybe make an extra 5hp. Not worth it IMO unless the heads already have to come off. Then you could mill .040-.060 and re mill the intake manifold faces.Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteHawk
Is the argument store? Worth it compared to what? Doing nothing?Quote:
Originally Posted by camaromann
-Geoff
Arguement store? I would rather not go through the work and money to mill everything just to get a handful of HP. That's my opinion.Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteHawk
Opinion noted. Now you can go back to talking about your SBC.Quote:
Originally Posted by camaromann
-Geoff
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony
Lidio tuned
No logs
Fuel was fine 93 Oct
Go take his engine apart then from him and spend his money then to gain 5hp you douche.Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteHawk
Hi,Quote:
Originally Posted by gub
Just my 2 cents, but based on the size of the engine and the specs you have mentioned, it seems about right. How dose the car feel when you drive it? Are you feeling any flat spots where it wants to lay over power wise? What was your intended use for the car? I hate to see you pull it apart after having spent money on the tune etc. just to do it again. A gear change/tire change may get you to your goal on the cheap.
Such anger. You should get some help for that.Quote:
Originally Posted by camaromann
-Geoff
This. See how you like it on the street. There's no point in Dyno racing. At the shop I recently left we had an engine Dyno. We were dynoing a BBC for some guy (we did not build it) and he was expecting 1000 hp. It made like 900 or something. He was so certain it should make 1000 ( because he duplicated some other guy's build) that he took the engine to another shop right by our shop and had it dyno'd there. The numbers were within 3-4. He was so pissed, wound up pulling apart the engine, changed a bunch of stuff, and it made another 40.Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrousrick
I'm not trying to be a dick, I'm just saying, drive it, enjoy it, have fun.
You have the same drive-train as the cars you are comparing it too? Reason I say this is, if it feels good on the street, no flat spots, has a nice power curve, feels fast etc... I'd just see how it performs at the track.
Exactly my thoughts. I've always considered a dyno a tuning aid and not much else.Quote:
Originally Posted by orangejuiced86
I've seen 10 second cars dyno in the mid 300s, as mentioned, due to loose converters. I wouldn't worry about the number either.
Then again, I'm probably the least knowledgeable person in this thread. :lol:
I figured the hp number was a little low but i thought the torque was VERY low. Peak was 338lb ft. That's what a good 302 would do.
This was an automatic but the coverter was LOCKED.
I understand the dyno is a tuning tool and that's it but i figured If things are way off,it could use attention.
Thanks for the replies
Did you assemble the engine yourself? Have you checked the vitals on it? Compression, leakdown? Solid roller or Hydraulic? Camshaft installed correctly? Could be a number of things really.
I've never heard Lidio's dyno being generous, he's a very conservative tuner.
So you have a 500 hp, small block with 10:1, 93 oct? Sounds bad ass to me. :dontknow: