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Does anybody know where this could be purchased at? Our fuse relay control module went out, so looking for a new one of those or a complete kit. Ford racing said they do not have any. Previously bought it at Dunne-rite performance, but they are no longer in business. Thanks for any help.
Jeff
Are these it? LMR looks similar but universal.
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-93CWH/Musta...SABEgLx1PD_BwE
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/Mus...0L-Mustang.axd
What exactly happened to your module, can it be fixed?
The one at Mustangsunlimited is the same. I have found them listed but no stock. I really would like to find the module or find someone to check it out. This is in a 49 Ford F1 with a 5.0. Was having issues with the fuel pump not running. Played around with the module then it would work for a couple start ups. Now the fuel pump runs all the time like the relay is not shutting off. Also it started backfiring through the intake at the same time and is running terrible and very rich. It was running good except for the fuel pump issue. That is why I think it is the module. Any idea who would fix it or check it out? Thanks
It could be a pretty simple fix. I am not too familiar with that harness but from the looks of it, a new relay could be soldered on the circuit card. The running rich/backfiring could be a related or completely separate issue.
Can you post pics of the relay module? Where exactly are you located?
Living in Florida now. Tried several times but could not post a picture of the module.
The only way I can post pics here is using the Taptalk app.Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffB
Does the relay module unplug from the harness so it can be shipped for repairs?
Yes it will unplug for shipping.
I ran across this thread on a different forum:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...the-road-again!
I cannot find your relay anywhere, they have been obsolete for 5 years. The repair that they did in that forum was to desolder the Air Conditioning relay and move it to a different location on the board (they couldn't locate the relay either.) I don't have any on hand with the same specs.
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/3...14-1075658.pdf
This is the spec sheet for the relay. I'm looking up something that will cross reference with the old part.
I did a lot of searching also. I did not see the Factory Five thread but sounds just like my issue. I also could not find a relay. I was wondering about using the AC relay because I do not have AC. I really appreciate your help. Thanks
Ac and Fuel pump relays are the same.....i was swapping them out when testing my fuel pump issues...
I checked and both have the same part number.
So, if all else fails and it gest narrowed down to the relay, you can ship it to me and I can de-solder the AC and move it to the fuel pump location. There is another option, where you can solder a fuse holder pigtail to the circuit card and remotely locate the relays off of the board. The relays would be the standard automotive grade/size. The downfall is that it is not as clean of a build, but much more serviceable.
So for the actual issues of the engine running poorly:
The relay contacts could be sticking causing the pump to run intermittently. It could also be a PCM not commanding the pump to run.
First thing that you need to check is the condition of all of the connectors.
Crimps-solid crimping and soldering are key to good connections
Water intrusion-Anything that may be exposed to rain or car wash water. Look for discoloration in the strands of the wiring.
Grounds-high resistance. Sometimes this can be fixed but loosening and retightening the ground eyelets, but removing corrosion with a wire brush is best.
Condition of wiring insulation. Anything routed close to the exhaust or bound up too tight/bent/pinched etc?
Battery condition-fully charged and no corrosion on the terminals.
Fuel pump motor-depending on age, the motor could be taking extra current to run or getting too hot and seizing.
Measure supply voltage- you should be supplying very close to what the battery voltage is-to your ECM/relay module
Measure ground resistance-you should see very few ohms of resistance. Check from the battery negative terminal to each ground eyelet. If one ground eye has high resistance, it could create a ground loop but attempting to ground through a different component (easier path)
Voltage drops-basically, you are measuring how much voltage something is consuming.
Your ground side should be less than 0.1VDC (measure from the negative battery terminal to the Ground supply)
Battery positive should be less than 0.3VDC (measure from the positive battery terminal to the power supply IN)
If that is all in good shape it will help lead you to isolating the fault and finding the root cause. Once again, the relay can be swapped but if something else is causing the relay(s) to overwork you will run into this issue again.
I have done some checking with wires but will go through all of them starting at the battery. Would you be able to figure out if it is the fuel pump relay or the EEC relay? I like the idea of a remotely located relay. I would be very happy to ship this relay module to you. I will do all the checks you asked for then let you know what I find. Thank-You very much.
The remote relay thing could be a possibility. Depending on how much room you have where the module is located, I would suggest having all the relays use this style pigtail:
https://www.delcity.net/store/Pre-Wi...SABEgKZx_D_BwE
Then moving all the relays off of the board and easily replaceable in the future. Something like this:
Attachment 84904
I like that idea. I have room because I do not have a heater and have room behind the dash on the passenger side. I have the computer behind a kick panel on the passenger side. There is room above it and where the heater was. That way all the relays would not be obsolete.
On the ground side I have .7VDC. There is a 9 pin connector that looks like there may be one bad connection. It has a little different color. The connector is the fuel pump wire. I will rework that connection. Let me know if you think the .7 is an issue. Thanks
0.7 VDC drop is pretty high for a connection. I would do what you said, clean and rework the suspect connection and keep going from there.
I have went through the wiring and have the grounds down to .1 to .2. Reworked the main battery ground, that helped the most. I reworked the one wire connection also. I feel comfortable with the wiring now. The truck will start and idle. When I start to raise the RPM's the relays start to chatter and you can tell it is not running right. The fuel pump relay comes on now but does not shut off like it should.
It sounds like a failing relay, weak coil or sticking contacts. I'll PM you my address if you still want to ship it up for me to repair.Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffB
Yes I would like to ship it to you for repair. Thanks
PM sent
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/b...9155/overview/
https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express...8XBG0FE3G0GD5E
The relays are a bit pricey but they are Bosch and have a flyback diode which is a good idea for the ECM. The relays that are currently on the circuit board also have the diode.
The picture I sent you this morning was a "Keep it Clean" relay socket which is a bit pricey. The Amazon pigtail should work fine and it is much cheaper. Amazon has the Bosch relays too but they are $17 each, so they are cheaper from Summit Racing, even with having to pay for shipping.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kcw-11029/overview/
PM sent. All parts have been ordered. Thanks