Marc, if you have what looks to be a poor wet sand job on a silver body panel, what you recommned to perfect this? 3000 grit and a fine cut with a foam pad? In bright lights, the body panel has the heavy swirls and some fish eyes.
Marc, if you have what looks to be a poor wet sand job on a silver body panel, what you recommned to perfect this? 3000 grit and a fine cut with a foam pad? In bright lights, the body panel has the heavy swirls and some fish eyes.
It depends if the defects are from not doing enough final sanding / aggressive polishing, or if the defects are paint defects themselves.
To address each scenario:
1. If the defects are painting defects, it likely means no one did a good enough job on the initial "cut and buff" post paint. The solution might be 2,000 or 2,500 grit to eliminate the defects followed by 3,000, then heavy polishing AKA compounding and then polishing after that. In short: everything you'd normally do after painting has to be redone.
2. If the defects are detailing defects such as sanding marks, holograms / buffer trails, you'll likely just need 3,000 at most followed by normal polishing steps there after. This would clean-up the haphazardly executed prior detail work and give you the finish you desire.
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Marc, is Opti-Coat a viable product/proceedure to have done on a new car?
Thanks
george
"If it Flys, Floats or F**ks...RENT IT'.
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Absoultely. I have an Opti-Coat application job coming up on Friday. It's a great product, but not a miracle one. Yes, it really does last like it says it does, but as with anything: it's part of the solution, not the solution itself when it comes to taking care of your baby.
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I saw on facebook today someone recommending using a mixture of 2/3 vinegar to 1/3 to remove ice from car windows. First, I am not going to try it. But I am curious about it. Would the vinegar damage paint, weather stripping, or cowl plastics? Thanks.
Marc,
I have some duct tape residue stuck to my truck. Any suggestions of OTC cleaners? I tried common spray cleaners, but I can't get the glue off. Thanks.
I'm sure you're thinking acid=bad, but I'm not sure how strong vinegar is, let alone diluted vinegar is. It's likely more damaging to things like your plastics (cowl, wiper arms, etc) than your clear-coat.
Adhesive residue can be a pain in the butt. As long as it's on a clear-coated surface, you can use solvent-based products like wax&grease remover, acetone, and lacquer thinner. Apply carefully (don't get it on things you don't want it on!), let dwell for a few seconds, and wipe off. Multiple applications might be needed.
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Great to hear!
I see this thread is now approaching 45,000 views, which is incredible. It's great to have fellow enthusiasts asking and answering some questions and various people contributing to this thread. Great questions, great discussion as a whole and I'm glad others have enjoyed it.
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I've been browsing this thread for a few months now and appreciate all the tips and info. I do have a question though. Hand waxing my vehicles is all I've ever known/done, and its a long gruesome process on my truck. I have never ever used a wheel before, but I'm wanting to finally try it. Is there a recommended buffer or orbital buffer, and also what type of pads a newbie can buy and use? Also I am ONLY wanting to use a wheel to apply wax. I have no interest in trying my hand at buffing out surface scratches, or cutting. I want something I can lean into the paint hard and not damage it(not saying I would ever do this). I guess what I'm looking for is something that has a very high rookie factor lol. Any help or recommendation would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
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