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Thread: Ask AutoLavish! Answers to your car care questions...

  1. #21
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    What would you recommend for Chrysler "Chrome-Clad" aka "Plastic" wheels? I have always just used soapy water and sometimes some Windex after they dried. This usually works ok, but I have seen them pit from brake dust and winter road salt in the past. I have always been afraid to use any chemical wheel cleaners on them. Thanks!

  2. #22
    Forum Member Overboost's Avatar
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    The glass almost looks like it has some pitting on it, or "sparkles" in the sunlight. I don't know if that's a result of gravel peppering the windshield or what, but it's annoying. I'll give the 105/orange pad a try on the PC and see how it works.

    Also, this is probably a stupid question, but what's the taping for on the joints exactly? I've just done it and never fully understood why.

  3. #23
    Club Member moneypit's Avatar
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    How about some interior tips? such as getting leather seats that have been in the sun and neglected for years, IE hard as a rock
    To me, it's a good idea to always carry two sacks of something when you walk around. That way, if anybody says, "Hey, can you give me a hand?" You can say, "Sorry, got these sacks."

  4. #24
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    The leather seats in my f-150 look like crap. The last owner never even washed it in the 80k miles he had it. Is there anyway to bring back this damage or do I need a new seat bottom and steering wheel?




  5. #25
    Club Sponsor Marc@AutoLavish's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaysoProductions View Post
    Man awesome thread and your awesome at answering questions, I wish I could get a Auto lavish coupon (lol) my Yukon is in NEED of a detail in and out! You guys are the best at what you do and everytime I talk to someone about detailing I refer them to you keep up the great work and communication!
    Thanks for the support and kind words - I'll be PMing you back soon.

    Quote Originally Posted by Midntrdr View Post
    What would you recommend for Chrysler "Chrome-Clad" aka "Plastic" wheels? I have always just used soapy water and sometimes some Windex after they dried. This usually works ok, but I have seen them pit from brake dust and winter road salt in the past. I have always been afraid to use any chemical wheel cleaners on them. Thanks!
    Chrome clad wheels should get treated like chrome wheels as a whole. While it's a chrome covered plastic front, the chrome is very much susceptible to bad pitting and damage if not treated right. Soapy water is perfectly fine - just try to make sure you're using car wash soap. There's no need to use the strong disinfecting properties of hand soap on your wheels and tires.
    Chemical wheel cleaners along with a couple of brushes will make your life A LOT easier. Look on the first page for my tips and a video on proper wheel cleaning: follow them and you should be fine. Chrysler made the switch to chrome-clad to save money, but its actually a pretty durable finish so you should be fine as long as you follow the same precautions everyone should when it comes to wheel care.

    The only exception is when it comes to super high priced wheels and brake components (think beautiful racing wheels and / or carbon ceramic brakes).
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  6. #26
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    Thanks for the info. I have been using car wash soap, as the last step after washing the rest of the car. Good to know I can use wheel cleaners to help speed up the process.

  7. #27
    Club Sponsor Marc@AutoLavish's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Overboost View Post
    The glass almost looks like it has some pitting on it, or "sparkles" in the sunlight. I don't know if that's a result of gravel peppering the windshield or what, but it's annoying. I'll give the 105/orange pad a try on the PC and see how it works.

    Also, this is probably a stupid question, but what's the taping for on the joints exactly? I've just done it and never fully understood why.
    Pitting on your glass is a fairly common problem. I've experienced it first hand in my S2000 (look up a pic of one and you'll see how "straight up" the windshield sits), and eventually had to replace it. The good news is that a lot of insurance companies have special deals on windshields as its a big safety concern - my deductible on my windshield was $100 to my surprise - part of why I had it done

    Taping serves the purpose of protecting sensitive areas. Plastic and rubber trim along with thin edges of body panels can easily be damaged - especially when using a rotary polisher due to the heat that is generated. DA's like your PC 7424 aren't as much of a danger, but many people would rather be safe than sorry.
    Edges of panels have historically been very thin when hand painted. Now with machines doing most of that work it isn't as much of an issue, but once again - it can still be good practice. Many follow the rule of thumb that if it isn't paint / supposed to get polished, it should be protected with tape from being touched.
    Worst case scenario - it's $5 insurance
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  8. #28
    Forum Member YLWFVR's Avatar
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    Marc,

    Looking to pickup a foam gun. I was looking at the ones over at Autogeek. Let me know what you think.

    Thanks

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by YLWFVR View Post
    Marc,

    Looking to pickup a foam gun. I was looking at the ones over at Autogeek. Let me know what you think.

    Thanks
    If for a garden hose, they work pretty well. Be advised that it's not a foam lance, though. I have the Gilmour Foammaster and it works well.

    1999 Z28. A4. Magnaflow catback and a lid. 60k miles.

  10. #30
    Club Member Krazybones's Avatar
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    How can I get you to do my car for "almost" free?



    I can supply Beer of your choice, snacks, Pizza, Smoked then BBQ'd ribs and my moms famous home made cooking while you are there.

    I am amazed at your level of attention to Detail. Awesome work again!
    ****MATT*****

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