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Thread: Chassis paint q's

  1. #1
    Club Member DoubleC's Avatar
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    Default Chassis paint q's

    I have two cars down to the frame and want to paint all the chassis black parts in one session- (2) frames, (2) rear axles, (2) driveshafts, two cars worth of misc small brackets, bits, and doo-dads.
    I have Devilbiss' 2-gun Startingline kit- which I've never used. I desire an American OEM sheen for all parts. I also want the topcoat to be UV protected. All parts will have rust removed by wire-wheel/bristle disc/sandpaper/wipe-on chemical processes- I really should have ponied up for dipping/blasting.

    One car is an early '60s full-size Ford (chassis is ~13' x 4' box) the other is a mid-'60s Morgan (chassis is ~10' x 3' 'S' shaped sheetmetal). Both cars will be driven (fairweather only) so the finish must be durable.

    Now, for the Qs. . .

    What's your preferred product for this application? primer & topcoat or a directly on metal paint?
    Which product do you recommend for the painting newb and my equipment?
    Would a gallon of paint be enough for both projects?


    Just getting a bit lost in Chassis Saver, POR, DP90, John Deere Blitz Black, Eastwood, etc. . . information.

  2. #2
    "Everybody wants some" 91trunk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleC View Post
    I have two cars down to the frame and want to paint all the chassis black parts in one session- (2) frames, (2) rear axles, (2) driveshafts, two cars worth of misc small brackets, bits, and doo-dads.
    I have Devilbiss' 2-gun Startingline kit- which I've never used. I desire an American OEM sheen for all parts. I also want the topcoat to be UV protected. All parts will have rust removed by wire-wheel/bristle disc/sandpaper/wipe-on chemical processes- I really should have ponied up for dipping/blasting.

    One car is an early '60s full-size Ford (chassis is ~13' x 4' box) the other is a mid-'60s Morgan (chassis is ~10' x 3' 'S' shaped sheetmetal). Both cars will be driven (fairweather only) so the finish must be durable.

    Now, for the Qs. . .

    What's your preferred product for this application? primer & topcoat or a directly on metal paint?
    Which product do you recommend for the painting newb and my equipment?
    Would a gallon of paint be enough for both projects?


    Just getting a bit lost in Chassis Saver, POR, DP90, John Deere Blitz Black, Eastwood, etc. . . information.
    A gallon might do it depending on coats and mixing.

    I've never heard a bad thing about the POR stuff.
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  3. #3
    Club Member Billydroveit's Avatar
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    POR is nice, goes on nicely with the right mix.equipment. you can get it in different colors/finishes, and is verydurable. I have it on teh underside and underhood of my car, and in 6 years of owning it (was on long before i baught teh car) it hasn't faded or peeled and is hard to chip/scratch. If you're downriver painters supply carries it i believe on fort by southfield.
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    Club Member red347lx's Avatar
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    Flat Rock Automotive carries it as well. We just picked some up yesterday afternoon.

  5. #5
    Club Member DoubleC's Avatar
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    Mullins (NAPA) in Milan stocks POR, too. I've brushed it on Jeep frames before but haven't sprayed it. I'd like to know which other brands people prefer.

  6. #6
    Club Member Duke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by red347lx View Post
    Flat Rock Automotive carries it as well. We just picked some up yesterday afternoon.
    I was there earlier this week and asked about the stuff, was suprised to hear they still sold stuff like this!
    I like pie.

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    Club Member red347lx's Avatar
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    That store is the BEST around here for anything Automotive! No kids behind the counter asking what color your car is and what not.
    Quote Originally Posted by Duke View Post
    I was there earlier this week and asked about the stuff, was suprised to hear they still sold stuff like this!

  8. #8
    Club Member SVT32VDOHC's Avatar
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    POR15 works great and has a VERY high gloss but is not UV friendly. You said you wanted UV protection, so you will have to prime, and paint the parts that will be exposed to the sun. POR15 or Chassis Saver will be excellent for the axles and frames and things under the car. I haven't used Chassis Saver, maybe someone else can chime in if that product is UV safe. POR15 is designed to adhere to rust, and I've noticed it doesn't stick too great to bare metal. I tested a few peices I had laying around and when it's over rust, it won't come off, but over bare metal, I scraped it off with a screwdriver.

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    Club Member moneypit's Avatar
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    I had a frame powdercoated for 300.00 done in under 24 hours
    To me, it's a good idea to always carry two sacks of something when you walk around. That way, if anybody says, "Hey, can you give me a hand?" You can say, "Sorry, got these sacks."

  10. #10
    Club Member THOR84GT's Avatar
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    E-Coating is very nice there is a place in Romulus that does it.
    http://redi-coat.com/ecoating.html
    Attachment 53558

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