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Thread: Need 6.0 turbo build advice

  1. #11
    Club Member Dr. Teeth's Avatar
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    Forgot to mention that my buddy has a 2010 Mustang GT with which he wants to race. His car is bone stock, mine not so much. This will be a drag race. From what I've read I'm not worried but not a Mustang guy. Thoughts?
    67 Chevy II, Mothballed.
    96 WS6-- RESCUED, de-raping in progress...


    Bitch, you know I'm glad to be back.

  2. #12
    Club Member BigWheelinBubba's Avatar
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    In the bag if you can drive
    Mike





  3. #13
    Official Motown Events Director Hugger Z's Avatar
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    Yeah twins are the best! They drive like normal until you lean into it. Then make sure you're pointed straight and HOLD ON! Ceramic coat the hot sides to keep heat in the pipes. I did that to mine and was able to get rid of all of the heat shields that came with my APS kit. Talk to Jonny at Huron Speed. They have some SWEET kits on sale right now (with and without AC). They can steer you in the right direction for turbo sizes, etc.

    If you are not planning on going crazy, 60lb Motron's will be fine. I am pushing 600hp with mine and they idle great and have never had an issue. I have almost 50k on my set-up. If you are shooting for more power, you may need more injector.
    My Toys: Hugger Orange 1999 Z28 6-Spd Twin Turbo
    1937 Chevy Pick Up Extended Cab (1 of 1)
    Future Toy: Orange Ultima GTR or SLC...

  4. #14
    Club Member Dr. Teeth's Avatar
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    Sweet thanks! The turbo I have now is a 76mm non-BB unit which does have plenty of power for me but the lag is really noticeable. Might try going to the BB version maybe.

    Right now I'm getting the final pieces of accessory drive together. Going to run the Vette setup with the BMR Turbo LS K-Member. I already have the manifolds both in SS and cast. Just trying to decide whether to put T4 flanges on them or connect together for a single.
    67 Chevy II, Mothballed.
    96 WS6-- RESCUED, de-raping in progress...


    Bitch, you know I'm glad to be back.

  5. #15
    Club Member WhiteHawk's Avatar
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    The great thing about going with iron manifolds is that you don't have to worry about them cracking. Have you tried bumping the stall on your current setup? Might need 4000 or so to help get that turbo spooled faster.

    -Geoff
    2016 Camaro Convertible 2SS

  6. #16
    Club Member Dr. Teeth's Avatar
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    I've got both Iron and SS manifolds. I was going to either use the stock 3 bolt flanges or cut them off and put a V-Band setup on them.

    Truthfully, I just wanna drive it!!!


    I've read some on coating the hot side parts. Good idea? They're all stainless at present.
    67 Chevy II, Mothballed.
    96 WS6-- RESCUED, de-raping in progress...


    Bitch, you know I'm glad to be back.

  7. #17
    Forum Member NightMare Fox's Avatar
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    any update?

  8. #18
    A mysterious figure named Darko DarkoStoj's Avatar
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    I have a nice set of Eagle H beam rods, Studs for the cylinder heads, f-body oil pan, and ARP rod bolts....those along with a good set of pistons will get you a stout engine that can see 20lbs of boost.

  9. #19
    Club Member Dr. Teeth's Avatar
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    Replaced the pistons and the rods already, just having trouble up here getting someone to balance the new rotating assembly. Shit gets done up here but it moves at about 0.0000000001 x the rate I'm used to. Once I get the motor back I will post pics of my progress. Going to be fun!
    67 Chevy II, Mothballed.
    96 WS6-- RESCUED, de-raping in progress...


    Bitch, you know I'm glad to be back.

  10. #20
    Forum Member H.O. Driver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. Teeth View Post
    Replaced the pistons and the rods already, just having trouble up here getting someone to balance the new rotating assembly. Shit gets done up here but it moves at about 0.0000000001 x the rate I'm used to. Once I get the motor back I will post pics of my progress. Going to be fun!

    I know they are few and far between up north, who is doing it for you?

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