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Thread: 2000 s10 4.3 liter no start

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    Default 2000 s10 4.3 liter no start

    Trucks a 2000 s10, 4.3 liter auto. it will not start. Cranks strong all day but no fire. Has new spider injector, new ignition module, few other new sensors ( basically just threw parts at it ). Truck has 62 psi fuel pressure on prime and stays like 60-62 while cranking. Compression is great on all cylinders, gets great spark. Only starts on starting fluid and stays running a few seconds. Getting codes p0108, p1106, p1345 cam/crank position sensor. I'm thinking that's my issue but have no idea how to change it ( basicly getting conflicting answers off Google where there located )

    What do you guys think ?

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    Club Member 1BADAIR's Avatar
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    Believe the crank sensor is at the balancer in the front cover and the cam sensor is in the distributor
    A gun is like a parachute. If you need one, and don't have one, you'll probably never need one again.

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    Default 2000 s10 4.3 liter no start

    Edit: seen it has good spark

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    is the ecm fuse 1 good? security light on?
    Last edited by 1BADAIR; 03-31-2018 at 08:46 AM.
    A gun is like a parachute. If you need one, and don't have one, you'll probably never need one again.

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    No security light. Ecm fuse is good.

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    Car will fire and stay running with starting fluid, the second you stop spraying starting fluid it just dies. It's almost like something is stopping the injectors from spraying. But reading more online it seems like the p1345 code will cause that, I'll swap those sensors out with a parts 4.3 I've got laying around, another option everyone is saying is the distributor being 1 tooth off or so causing the 2 sensors not to be in sync. I'd imagine it would still run though being a tooth off though just run like shit.

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    if the physical timing is good, & you have the volume of fuel with psi spraying, then the crank sensor or a bad coolant temp sender would cause it. Are the plugs clean as if it is not spraying fuel at all? If it werent for the DTC's you listed, a bad TPS can cause similar no starts.

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    If the two [crank and distrib] are not aligned, it will not start... Unless the pcm is modified to allow it. I'm not sure if there's a way as of yet to enable such to still start, but if you're willing to support it, it could be an option to try.

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    Ok, I'll tdc the motor again and try to re stab the distributor. It's been out before so Its possible it's off a tooth, but I swear it was running before the distributor was pulled last.

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    Yes, plugs are 100% clean like there's 0 fuel getting to them to burn.

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