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Thread: Ecoboost diag help

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    Club Member mustangmike6996's Avatar
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    Default Ecoboost diag help

    I'm currently on the road and my check engine MIL illuminated. P0299 Turbo underboost and P0016 Cam position sensor fault. Any advice before I get home and start diag in the cold weather?

    It's a 2013 F150 3.5 Ecoboost with 66k miles.

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    Club Member Beigg's Avatar
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    has it become sluggish? Delay throttle response prior to setting the codes? When you clear the codes, how soon before they trigger the faults again? Could be a cam sensor, phaser, sloppy timing assembly [R&R: chain, guides, gears, & tensioner] .
    I recall a conversation once that when the the dtc's were reset & trucked down to the dealer, the dealer ended up having it a long while as it ended up being the timing assembly needing replacement. I believe they had an ext warranty that covered it all.

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    Forum Member CruisnCobra's Avatar
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    P0016 I believe is the code typically set when the timing chains stretch/ fail and have rattle noise on startup. P0299 I have not seen many people post about.

    Good luck tough. I have a 2013 as well and not impressed at all with the reliability. Had a rod knock type sounding noise coming from the top end 3,900 miles after I bought it and ended up replacing the engine under the dealer supplied warranty. It had like 123k on it at the time.

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    Club Member BigWheelinBubba's Avatar
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    That P0299 could possibly just be a loose cold side connection. Check all of your clamps.
    Mike





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    Club Member mustangmike6996's Avatar
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    From a quick look, no loose connections or clamps. It was a little sluggish a week ago, felt like I was towing intermittently. No MIL at the time. I reset the TPS with a manual relearn. That didn't help. On my way up north my MIL popped. I stopped at AutoZone, they scanned it and cleared codes. DTCs returned after 60 miles. Feels like the wastegate is intermittently sticking

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    Check the boost connection in back
    https://youtu.be/atv1Jew9mWg

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    I am not sure about the gates/actuators on this specific engine, but a stuck open gate would create a boost leak and you would have an underboost fault. It would also cause boost to build slower dependent on how far stuck open it is.
    If stuck closed, you'd overboost and it comes on like mad.
    Sorry if I'm stating the obvious and you already knew these.

  8. #8
    Club Member mustangmike6996's Avatar
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    So, I finished my trip home from up north this morning. I have more time to type/explain:

    A week or so ago, I was heading home from work and it was a pretty cold/windy night, the truck was struggling to stay at 70 MPH without downshifting to 5th gear. I would have to slowly apply more and more throttle to keep it above 55, Id get to 70 and shift to 6th gear then it started bogging again. I thought it was a really shitty/strong headwind. The issue went away for a day or 2. I came home, did the TPS relearn in the driveway (key cycle then slowly go to 100% throttle engine off, and let the pedal rapidly return to rest). No issue for a couple days. It starts up and runs fine for a little while then intermittently bogs. I made it 5 miles into a 250 mile trip on friday and it popped a MIL, I stopped at autozone and had it scanned (P0016/P0299) I babied it up north which sucked because it was trying to shift into 4/5th gear for most of the trip until I stopped at Birch Run for dinner. I got back on the road and it was fine until Roscommon. I got to the cottage and did a quick visual of all the hoses, clamps, wastegate actuators etc, nothing obvious. I disconnected the battery for 30 minutes and then drove it to Gaylord and cleared the MIL/DTCs at Autozone. On my trip home this morning, about 20 miles into it, the MIL came back for the P0016 and pending P0299 but i didnt have many issues with feeling underboost. I got home and was able to hook my scan tool up, nothing looks out of the ordinary from a quick glance at the data.

    So I have been researching causes and options

    P0299:
    (as many have stated) check all connections
    CAC air duct valve (BOV)- I need to pull the valve and check the diaphragm for tears
    Wastegate actuators, check for play or sticking-I dont hear the oscillation that people on Youtube have recorded (I might be able to R/R these individually)
    If all that checks out, then it could be a failing turbo. I did see 177 kPa (25 PSI) of boost at 100% throttle with my scanner but I couldnt duplicate the bog at the time so I will continue to drive with the scan tool hooked up for me to monitor data

    P0016 (this is the shitty issue) cam sen 1 bank A and crank phase
    Possible timing chain stretch- thats about all I can find on this so far which everyone has paid $$$$ for repairs

    They recommend replacing all 4 VCT phasers with the primary and secondary chains as well as incidentals and it is something like a 12 hr job which comes out to $2-3k (I would do this myself but my garage is full so I'm weighing out options top hold the repair off until spring)

    I plan on hunting down some of the powertrain guys I work with tomorrow to pick their brains about these engines.

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    Forum Member CruisnCobra's Avatar
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    The timing chain stretch will have a very audible rattle/ marble noise on a cold start up. The tensioners are oil pressure driven so on start up with stretched chains they do no have anything tightening the slack until oil pressure gets to them 2-3 seconds after start up. I've had to replace them on an Ecoboost Flex to the tune of $2,700. It didn't have the code but had the noise. From what I've read people seem to have gone quite a while with the code set with no issues before replacement.

    Personally I think that your issue is from the P0299 and P0016 is just a secondary un-related code for this issue, but I could be totally wrong.

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    Club Member Beigg's Avatar
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    If I am reading your post right, you are comparing the real-time boost PSI to what the engine should be receiving?

    Look for signs of a blown intercooler. A row of damaged fins from road debris, cracked end tanks [especially if they're plastic] , a clamp that has failed; The clamp may appear good, but when checked with a wrench, it might reveal an issue.

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