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Thread: Ecoboost diag help

  1. #11
    Club Member mustangmike6996's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CruisnCobra View Post
    The timing chain stretch will have a very audible rattle/ marble noise on a cold start up. The tensioners are oil pressure driven so on start up with stretched chains they do no have anything tightening the slack until oil pressure gets to them 2-3 seconds after start up. I've had to replace them on an Ecoboost Flex to the tune of $2,700. It didn't have the code but had the noise. From what I've read people seem to have gone quite a while with the code set with no issues before replacement.

    Personally I think that your issue is from the P0299 and P0016 is just a secondary un-related code for this issue, but I could be totally wrong.
    That's what I'm hoping for, I don't have any noise or at startup, cold, warm, idle or high load


    Quote Originally Posted by Beigg View Post
    If I am reading your post right, you are comparing the real-time boost PSI to what the engine should be receiving?

    Look for signs of a blown intercooler. A row of damaged fins from road debris, cracked end tanks [especially if they're plastic] , a clamp that has failed; The clamp may appear good, but when checked with a wrench, it might reveal an issue.
    I put a socket to all the clamps and they are all tight, I yanked on all of the tubing, nothing came loose. I'm still running my inspection mirror around to make sure one isn't cracked. Catalytic converter temps are equal (or very close) at all times so plugged exhaust is unlikely. I looked over the IC and didn't see any cracks. I'm probably going to hook my vac/pressure gauge up for a manual reading and bounce it off of the MAP readings.

  2. #12
    Club Member mustangmike6996's Avatar
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    I pulled the BOV to check the diaphragm, that was good but the green oring looks like it was rolled and cut during assembly. The truck has never been serviced (other than the maintenance that I perform) and ive owned it since it had like 10 miles. I lubed the oring and reinstalled the BOV.

    I sprayed the wastegate actuator rods with penetrating oil. The passenger side is almost impossible to move unless I push it with a screwdriver, the driver side can be freely moved for a full stroke with the tension of the diaphragm. I'm going to screw around with some trucks at work to see which one is correct.

    I did notice a oil seep from either the timing cover or between the block and cyl head. I cleaned it up and will monitor it. I might add UV dye to the oil.

    Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

  3. #13
    Club Member mustangmike6996's Avatar
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    I drove to and from work (28 miles each way) and I still have the hesitation above 60, which happened after work on the way home after 9 hours of sitting. The boost builds slow at low speeds and squeals when it vents. The underboost DTC is clear. I have the pinpoint test for wastegate diag (need to pressurize the diaphragm to see full movement). I'll hook up the mityvac tomorrow. Im Wondering if I don't see this issue on my way to work because I go to the gym (2 mile round trip) before work every day then head to work with a partially warmed up truck after a key cycle. If this runs fine on my way to work but acts up on my return trip, I'm going to pull over and key cycle to see if it affects driveability.

    Unfortunately, the P0016 cam/crank phase DTC came back after 30 miles. I am seeing the spark advance between 10 and 40 degrees. My Microscan won't read phaser or crank angle. From all of the forum research I have done, this seems to be timing chain stretch. I'm hoping to find a single instance where there's a different outcome.

    Are there any Motown Muscle members who are Ford dealership techs? I want to use an IDS scan tool for PID tests and have questions about the last DTC mentioned.
    Last edited by mustangmike6996; 01-03-2019 at 01:41 AM.

  4. #14
    Club Member Golden's Avatar
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    Sounds like a similar issue a buddy of mine had with his ecoboost truck around the same mileage. I'll ask if he remembers what it was. No guarantees he will know exactly what was done or what the issue was, he isnt a gear head.

    Edit: He said a turbo had to be replaced, probably BOV too as it was making odd noises.
    Last edited by Golden; 01-03-2019 at 07:32 PM.
    1999 Z28. A4. Magnaflow catback and a lid. 58k miles.
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  5. #15
    Club Member mustangmike6996's Avatar
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    Just pulled the passenger side cam cover, there's a ton of slack in the chain.

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    Forum Member camaromann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mustangmike6996 View Post
    Just pulled the passenger side cam cover, there's a ton of slack in the chain.
    You are making me nervous. My transmission in my truck blew up a week after starting a new job. We are using my buddies (we ride in to work together) 2012 ecoboost f150 and he has about 95,000 miles and is having hesitation issues and engine miss issues. His truck also sounds bad on start up like there is loose sheet metal or something. Now you have me worried his truck is going to break lol

  7. #17
    Club Member mustangmike6996's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by camaromann View Post
    You are making me nervous. My transmission in my truck blew up a week after starting a new job. We are using my buddies (we ride in to work together) 2012 ecoboost f150 and he has about 95,000 miles and is having hesitation issues and engine miss issues. His truck also sounds bad on start up like there is loose sheet metal or something. Now you have me worried his truck is going to break lol
    That has got to be the chain and phasers. If he has about 1-3 hours, (depending on skill) he can pull the pass side cam cover and take a look. I was grab the chain on the intake cam and feel all the slack, then I was able to peek at the tensioner to see that it was 4-6 clicks out. It's got as much stretch as a small block with 200k miles.

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    Club Member mustangmike6996's Avatar
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    I plan to keep the truck and do the repairs myself, parts are about $200. It's a 9.2hr warranty job so I'd assume 14 hours customer pay. Not sure what labor rates are now but I'd assume they're every bit of $120/hr.

    The low boost is still a head scratcher. I'll do the chain then clear the fault and adaptive learn before I get back into boost diag.

    As for your buddies misfires, look at CAC tube moisture. Some ppl drill a small hole in the tube at the bottom to drain. Take a look on YouTube.

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  10. #20
    Forum Member camaromann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mustangmike6996 View Post
    I plan to keep the truck and do the repairs myself, parts are about $200. It's a 9.2hr warranty job so I'd assume 14 hours customer pay. Not sure what labor rates are now but I'd assume they're every bit of $120/hr.

    The low boost is still a head scratcher. I'll do the chain then clear the fault and adaptive learn before I get back into boost diag.

    As for your buddies misfires, look at CAC tube moisture. Some ppl drill a small hole in the tube at the bottom to drain. Take a look on YouTube.
    He is not mechanically inclined at all lol. I'll let him know what you are going through and what you found out though. We will see if hes just going to keep driving and chancing it, or get it fixed. Thanks

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