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Thread: Rust encapsulators, converters, etc - what works best?

  1. #1
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    Default Rust encapsulators, converters, etc - what works best?

    I have a 2003 Yukon that's a spare vehicle - mostly will be driven in decent weather, but all my vehicles are old and I am sure something will inevitably break on one of them and force the Yukon into service for odd periods during the winter.

    Mechanically, it seems solid, and even visually, rust is just starting - I am seeing a little on the rockers, inside the doors..the worst is the front fenders are starting to rot out - the typical GMT800 areas. It's really not worth a full sheetmetal repair IMO - it's pushing 150k, it's been totalled by insurance, frame is getting the typical rust, etc. It's effectively a free car right now - I think I have less than $1k into it with the insurance payout.

    So, my plan is just to slow down it's death and make it look decent enough. I have factory fender flares I'll be putting on, and I thought I'd try to slow the rust as much as possible and bedline it (raptor or monstaliner) from the body crease down to 2 tone it. My thinking is it should help protect it and keep it from spreading as quickly, plus, as it continues to spread, it'll at least hide it longer.

    What products work best, in your experience? I've seen people talk about using regular phosphoric acid (like, from Home Depot), rust-mort, POR-15, chassis saver...rustoleoum has a rust converter now, Ospho, Corroseal...

    I know nothing will stop it permanently, but if I can slow it enough and make it look decent to get 5 more years out of this thing, I'd be happy enough. Any experiences, either good or bad?

  2. #2
    Club Member capone's Avatar
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    I have had great results with Coroseal. I have used it on a few different trucks. I just used it today on my utility trailer.

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    Club Member mikesfastss's Avatar
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    I’ve used chassis saver with good results on floor boards in my old trucks

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    Cool - glad to hear those aren't total crap.

    Corroseal, I hear it's really watery and read someone mention to get a thick enough coat, you really need the treated surface to be horizontal. Any truth to that?

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    Club Member capone's Avatar
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    It is watery but I had no problem on getting a good coat on. On my trailer today I sprayed it on with a spray bottle and then feathered it out with a sponge brush. I bought a gallon off of Amazon If you close to Clinton township I will can fill a water bottle up for you to try it before you buy it.

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    I've used POR-15 on many projects and had good results.

  7. #7
    Club Member Golden's Avatar
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    Bed liner usually traps the moisture and makes rust worse.
    1999 Z28. A4. Magnaflow catback and a lid. 60k miles.

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    Forum Member Rumblestrip's Avatar
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    Interesting video comparison of a few products


  9. #9
    Club Member WhiteHawk's Avatar
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    Also, Sherman Parts probably makes all the body panels for that Tahoe including patch panels. $200-$300 for a fender or a door skin. Paint it and go!

    -Geoff
    2016 Camaro Convertible 2SS

  10. #10

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    Shermans doesnt exist anymore.

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