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Thread: Advice - Regarding my Build

  1. #31
    Club Member mustangmike6996's Avatar
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    Have you tried a new MAP sensor or tape a vac/press gauge to the windshield and take it for a drive to verify.

  2. #32
    Club Member WhiteHawk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by furian76 View Post
    My OG Tuner, finally took a look at new logs I ran today. He said as soon as he saw the log, I am making zero boost. It's actually in a vacuum. Says there is a major leak somewhere in the intake from the turbos to the TB. Without having them spool up, it's hard to figure out where the leak is. I pulled on everything I could and nothing felt loose. I am going to look around the intake tomorrow to see if maybe it blew a seal or something. I don't hear anything from up front when under load. But this thing is so loud, I can barely hear the turbos. He said it will also cause a lot of the other issues I am having as well because they are linked to the MAP.
    Wow, if there is a leak on the clean air side and the exhaust side, that could be your issue. It would be pretty hard to feel a leak on the clean side at idle too, unlike an exhaust leak, because it wouldn't be pushing a lot of air.

    clmp.jpg

    By the way, here is the kind of clamp I always liked - and I pack the shit out of them with copper RTV. You should be able to get one in the exact size you need whether it is smooth or stepped. You can't get them at normal auto parts stores, but I used to get them at the local truck parts store. Summit and Jegs have them too. They are a bitch to get apart once the RTV cures, but they seal pretty good. Just make sure you let them set overnight, because on a boosted system, they will push the RTV out if it is not cured.

    -Geoff
    2016 Camaro Convertible 2SS

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by furian76 View Post
    No Gauge that I can see. I looked up that controller on the website and it shows a digital readout. So I am going to fine tooth comb my vehicle tonight. And honestly, the build was supposed to make power below 100Mph. That was my goal going into it and this was the system they recommended. I didn't want a S/C as it didn't scale as well for my future plans.
    You need a boost and fuel pressure gauge in the cabin. I daily an old XR4ti, these are the only two gauges I have that work. I can tell pretty much anything if the gauges don't read what I am used to seeing by just watching these two.

    I am not clear on the turbo system that is on this thing, but if you've got a leak on the compressor out side, you can overspeed the turbo and destroy it/them.
    FYI, you can't just disconnect the piping from the compressor out that goes to to the inlet of the engine and run it, it'll run like shit and you will for sure damage the turbo/s.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by WhiteHawk View Post
    Wow, if there is a leak on the clean air side and the exhaust side, that could be your issue. It would be pretty hard to feel a leak on the clean side at idle too, unlike an exhaust leak, because it wouldn't be pushing a lot of air.

    clmp.jpg

    By the way, here is the kind of clamp I always liked - and I pack the shit out of them with copper RTV. You should be able to get one in the exact size you need whether it is smooth or stepped. You can't get them at normal auto parts stores, but I used to get them at the local truck parts store. Summit and Jegs have them too. They are a bitch to get apart once the RTV cures, but they seal pretty good. Just make sure you let them set overnight, because on a boosted system, they will push the RTV out if it is not cured.

    -Geoff
    Curious where you're putting copper seal on this clamp? Just a bead around the pipe when you clamp it down?
    But yeah, get this kind of clamp, or get some pictures of where you have the leak and post them, then we can see what's going on and guide you with better info.

  5. #35
    Forum Member furian76's Avatar
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    SO.... Many purchased tools and parts later, here is what I have found. Honestly, its the dumbest possible things too.

    1. Watched a video about how to check for boost leak. Made a home kit adapter that will push 3psi into the system from the filter location.
    2. system would not hold pressure and I found a leak at the vacuum block. It was the hose barb that the have setup for a future boost controller. Was too big for the barb and was folded over onto itself and zip tied. $3 later and that leak was fixed. Basically just purchased an actual vacuum cap that was properly fitted and tied it down.
    3. Put 3psi back into the system and still not holding pressure. Checked under the hood. Nothing under hood. Followed the hissing sound toward the back. Found it was leaking at the waste gates. I can't fit under the jeep. So $150 later with jack, stands, and blocks, I still cant fit under enough to fix the issue, but it is the vacuum lines going into the waste gate. Either that or the fitting that the vacuum line goes into. Both waste gates are leaking enough that 3psi & 5psi can't build any pressure in the system.

    So, Now I am just waiting for him to read my messages to him or check his voice mail. I am thinking I will have him come get it or plan a day for me to come to his shop and wait on it while it gets fixed. That way he can fix the leaks and he can fix the exhaust while he is at it. Or at the very least make a plan to fix the exhaust. On the up side, I am learning a lot about cars. Enough to say they suck. lol.

  6. #36
    Club Member AutoRoc's Avatar
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    Ooooofffffffphhhh.....
    Denny Villemure
    PSSSSSSST!
    Vortec 4200 Turbo IROC-Z on 15psi
    10.85 @ 126mph

  7. #37
    Club Member WhiteHawk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sofa king View Post
    Curious where you're putting copper seal on this clamp? Just a bead around the pipe when you clamp it down?
    But yeah, get this kind of clamp, or get some pictures of where you have the leak and post them, then we can see what's going on and guide you with better info.
    I slather up the joint like crazy first. Until you can barely see the pipes. Put extra around where the bolts sit. Do not slide the clamp on. Just wrap it on and move it as little as possible. Then clamp it. I have had a lot of luck doing that.

    -Geoff
    2016 Camaro Convertible 2SS

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by furian76 View Post
    SO.... Many purchased tools and parts later, here is what I have found. Honestly, its the dumbest possible things too.

    1. Watched a video about how to check for boost leak. Made a home kit adapter that will push 3psi into the system from the filter location.
    2. system would not hold pressure and I found a leak at the vacuum block. It was the hose barb that the have setup for a future boost controller. Was too big for the barb and was folded over onto itself and zip tied. $3 later and that leak was fixed. Basically just purchased an actual vacuum cap that was properly fitted and tied it down.
    3. Put 3psi back into the system and still not holding pressure. Checked under the hood. Nothing under hood. Followed the hissing sound toward the back. Found it was leaking at the waste gates. I can't fit under the jeep. So $150 later with jack, stands, and blocks, I still cant fit under enough to fix the issue, but it is the vacuum lines going into the waste gate. Either that or the fitting that the vacuum line goes into. Both waste gates are leaking enough that 3psi & 5psi can't build any pressure in the system.

    So, Now I am just waiting for him to read my messages to him or check his voice mail. I am thinking I will have him come get it or plan a day for me to come to his shop and wait on it while it gets fixed. That way he can fix the leaks and he can fix the exhaust while he is at it. Or at the very least make a plan to fix the exhaust. On the up side, I am learning a lot about cars. Enough to say they suck. lol.

    Well, this is probably the best way to learn how to figure the stuff out, you'll never forget.
    Do you know what type of gate they are?
    Does it just have a barb on it like your vacuum tree?

  9. #39
    Forum Member furian76's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sofa king View Post
    Well, this is probably the best way to learn how to figure the stuff out, you'll never forget.
    Do you know what type of gate they are?
    Does it just have a barb on it like your vacuum tree?
    Tial Sport 000546 Air Fittings 10mm Banjo Bolt is what it looks like. Even after identifying all these leaks, he said none of them seem like enough of a leak to cause the issue I am having. As for the specific gate, I am not 100% sure. Just says 38mm waste gates.


    He will be coming to my house to pick up the jeep in a couple of days to fix all of the issues. Honestly, he's a great shop because he will do that. But also feels bad due to the amount of time and issues caused from the install. I am not used to turbo installs or power adder installs at all and this may be a normal thing. But no one talks about it. Or none at least that I have seen. If he is able to address and find all the issues and get me running in the low 12's without issues, I will update you guys on what he fixed to address all of this.

    Thanks again for everything as I am sure all of this added to his urgency to fix it.
    Last edited by furian76; 07-20-2020 at 08:07 AM.

  10. #40
    Club Member AutoRoc's Avatar
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    Modifying cars to go faster is a never ending lifestyle of lost money and time. You make friends as you go and you can't take it personally when failure occurs. Welcome!!! This is how the website started.
    Denny Villemure
    PSSSSSSST!
    Vortec 4200 Turbo IROC-Z on 15psi
    10.85 @ 126mph

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