FYI: E-Coating in Romulus - HELL YEA

[monster.]

Just passing this on for you guys. REDI-COAT can chemically strip pretty much anything (car, chassis, doors, parts, etc.) up to 13'6" then apply PPG epoxy primer electronicly all of this done by using a dipping technique.

I'm thinking about doing this to my notch, to address any rust in those pesky front frame rails. Then I was going to prep and paint it myself.

Click the linky link for more info.

Best - Dave

[blackbolt9]

E-coat is what the OEM's currently use for underbody rust prevention on their cars. It is very effective, I believe I was told it was good for a 900 hour continous salt spray test. The place I talked to was in Muskegon, MI and it was very reasonably priced from what I remember. I plan on doing it with my project car if I ever get that far on it

[dave89iroc]

sweet, I will definitely keep them in mind

[QuickLX]

E-coat is what the OEM's currently use for underbody rust prevention on their cars. It is very effective, I believe I was told it was good for a 900 hour continous salt spray test. The place I talked to was in Muskegon, MI and it was very reasonably priced from what I remember. I plan on doing it with my project car if I ever get that far on it

E-coat (Cathodic electroplating or electrocoating) is a primer. Nothing more. The OEM's use it because it is cheap and provides a decent surface to paint on. It can be applied up to ~1mil thick (.001"). Most often it is applied at approximately 0.7mils (.0007"). Typically you can get ~480 hours out of it in a continuous salt spray. However, continuous salt spray chambers do not provide a very realistic performance which is why the OEM's are now leaning towards cyclic testing for validation.

If you could find a place that could provide an Autophoretic coating (A-coat), it would be best to use that. The oxidation protection is better and can coat in and around moving parts without bridging (bridging causes binding of hinges and other moving parts. It's also different from e-coat in that it's cure temps are low enough that rubberized parts can be coated without destroying them.

Just some food for thought.

[blackbolt9]

E-coat (Cathodic electroplating or electrocoating) is a primer. Nothing more. The OEM's use it because it is cheap and provides a decent surface to paint on. It can be applied up to ~1mil thick (.001"). Most often it is applied at approximately 0.7mils (.0007"). Typically you can get ~480 hours out of it in a continuous salt spray. However, continuous salt spray chambers do not provide a very realistic performance which is why the OEM's are now leaning towards cyclic testing for validation.

If you could find a place that could provide an Autophoretic coating (A-coat), it would be best to use that. The oxidation protection is better and can coat in and around moving parts without bridging (bridging causes binding of hinges and other moving parts. It's also different from e-coat in that it's cure temps are low enough that rubberized parts can be coated without destroying them.

Just some food for thought.

Thanks for the additional information. I was originally looking at it because of how thin of a coat it is, which allows for parts inspection at weld joints on things like control arms and k-members.

I am confused by your thickness numbers though, 1 mil (short for millimeter) would actually be 0.03937" and 0.7 mil would be 0.027559". 0.001" would be 1 thou (one thousandth of an inch) and 0.0007" would be 7 tenths (7 ten thousandths of an inch) obviously a huge difference, but from the research I did I am assuming you meant between 7 tenths and 1 thou, not 0.7 and 1 mil.

[Pwraddr]

Thanks for the additional information. I was originally looking at it because of how thin of a coat it is, which allows for parts inspection at weld joints on things like control arms and k-members.

I am confused by your thickness numbers though, 1 mil (short for millimeter) would actually be 0.03937" and 0.7 mil would be 0.027559". 0.001" would be 1 thou (one thousandth of an inch) and 0.0007" would be 7 tenths (7 ten thousandths of an inch) obviously a huge difference, but from the research I did I am assuming you meant between 7 tenths and 1 thou, not 0.7 and 1 mil.

1 mil is a unit of length equal to one thousandth (10-3) of an inch (0.0254 millimeter)

[blackbolt9]

1 mil is a unit of length equal to one thousandth (10-3) of an inch (0.0254 millimeter)

In what field of work? I've been a machinist and a machine designer and in both fields a mil is 1 millimeter.

[Pwraddr]

In what field of work? I've been a machinist and a machine designer and in both fields a mil is 1 millimeter.

Not trying to be a dick, but 1 mil is not = 1mm. Sorry. BTW, Powertrain Engineer, so automotive.

[blackbolt9]

Not trying to be a dick, but 1 mil is not = 1mm. Sorry. BTW, Powertrain Engineer, so automotive.

Not trying to be a dick but that must be why my last job's 3D data didn't match the 2D print and I have to redesign the block it fits to.

And yes 1 mil is one millimeter, aeronautical engineering degree to go with the work experience BTW...

[Pwraddr]

OK.