i have a 85 capri t-top car im building it has around 600 at the flywheel havent tid the frame yet but with a bigger pt rollcage could i eliminate the frame ties?? and ne body hear ne thing bout anti roll bars good or bad??thx
i have a 85 capri t-top car im building it has around 600 at the flywheel havent tid the frame yet but with a bigger pt rollcage could i eliminate the frame ties?? and ne body hear ne thing bout anti roll bars good or bad??thx
1. It's a unibodied car, it MUST have the framerails connected if you plan on racing it, especially at the track with slicks.
2. It's a T-top car, so its structurally more likely to twist, making it even more important that you have the framerails connected.
3. Decide how fast you intend to go with the car, and build the cage / chassis to meet the requirements. With the power you say you have, in a light car you could run high 9's, meaning other safety requirements beyond just the cage. Go here to get a rule book http://nhra.com/
4. If you want the car to leave straight, you WANT an anti-roll bar.
Steve
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What is the car going to be used for - street/ street strip/ or only strip? Like was stated, I would build to nhra rules, what way you're covered. But if it's only going to be a street car, I would avoid a 10pt. The bars up by your head could cause some serious head injury in an accident with no helmet.
If the car has any notion of cross 9.999999999 get a 10 poit and be done with it. At the time of construction the extra cost will be minimal.
they have sfi approved padding that feels hard but saves lives in accidents...i mean if theres no airbag, your heads gonna hit something, and odds are it would be just as hard as that cage...imo the cage is the way to go for structural support and safety properly engineered and installed
.....
"No"
im just planning on a street\slip type deal u know. right now it has et streets 26x10.5x15 im hoping that should be plenty. i dont really plan on running 9's i was thinkin lik low 11 high 10, but im sure id love it to go 9's thx for ur help have to give jegs or summit a call now to get all the new parts for christmas i was a good boy this yr lol
Ok, this isn't my first day at this stuff, but you have me somewhat confused.....
You say the engine produces roughly 600 hp...Yet, you only expect to run low 11's or high 10's????
Does the car weigh 4000 lbs??? (There's NO WAY, unless you added a TON of ballast) Because unless you can't drive, the car can't hook, or you short shift the hell out of it, its gonna go A LOT quicker than high 10's.
That car probably weighs around 3100, less if you gutted it. Even at the 3100, with 600 FWHP, you could go 9.90-9.80's.
So, I must ask, is 600 hp a "real" number, or your own personal "guestimate"?
Steve
QuickLX.com
Special Thanks to:
Competition Components (Scott Brown)
Hutch's Transmission Service (Hutch)
Monson Racing (Jim Monson)
Work Turbochargers (Reed Patridge)
Steve
QuickLX.com
Special Thanks to:
Competition Components (Scott Brown)
Hutch's Transmission Service (Hutch)
Monson Racing (Jim Monson)
Work Turbochargers (Reed Patridge)
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