Stick the bolt in something and torque to spec. Then add your extensions and try again. Almost all automotive specs have a +/- of 10%
Stick the bolt in something and torque to spec. Then add your extensions and try again. Almost all automotive specs have a +/- of 10%
A gun is like a parachute. If you need one, and don't have one, you'll probably never need one again.
Just a FYI, torqued to spec, rammed home with a impact or crossthreaded are all the same. tight is tight
To me, it's a good idea to always carry two sacks of something when you walk around. That way, if anybody says, "Hey, can you give me a hand?" You can say, "Sorry, got these sacks."
The first person that used a german torque value made it necessary to use new hardware this go around.
That or they were practicing Russia's methodology...
A lot of snap on trucks have a torque wrench tester.
A gun is like a parachute. If you need one, and don't have one, you'll probably never need one again.
Sadly there is no formula for this. Too many variables based on extension and universal quality/metallurgy. Your best bet is to replicate the angle the best you can in a vise and compare torque values. With out some very expensive tools you are not going to get it +/- 0%. You should very easily be able to get it +/_ 5% depending on the calibration of the torque wrench you use.
Also where the hell do you get a 72" extension and how much was it. I can only imagine what that cost.
the wrench being used was calibrated less than a couple months ago. It's now just being used for the first time. Snap-on/Bluepoint iirc. Less than 10% for a +/- variance is acceptable, just don't want to be reliant on the clicker being set at 165 when the end number might be 20+% lower than the setting compounding that with an "error rate" of 10% max thus being off by 30% overall.
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